Encantamento Cultural e Inovação Multicultural: Capacitando a criatividade e a inclusão da deficiência na indústria criativa da indonésia por meio dos texteis gulijat

Autores

  • Fera Ratyaningrum Universitas Negeri Surabaya, Indonésia
  • Muchammad Bayu Tejo Sampurno Universiti Pendidikan Sultan Idris, Malásia
  • Ika Anggun Camelia Universitas Negeri Surabaya, Indonésia

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.34630/e-rei.vi13.6321

Palavras-chave:

Gulijat, Patrimônio Cultural, Inclusão Da Deficiência, Indústrias Criativas, Inovação Multicultural, Artesanato Têxtil, Empoderamento Social

Resumo

Gulijat é uma inovação têxtil enraizada no patrimônio cultural da Indonésia, combinando técnicas tradicionais de dobradura e pinçamento com expressão artística contemporânea. Essa prática reflete o caráter multicultural do país e atua como um meio de empoderamento social. Em colaboração com a Tiara Handicraft, esta pesquisa examina Gulijat como uma estratégia para a diversificação de produtos e a inclusão de pessoas com deficiência na indústria criativa da Indonésia. Inicialmente concebida como uma iniciativa para combater barreiras no emprego de indivíduos com deficiência, a Tiara Handicraft evoluiu para uma organização cultural que empodera artesãos, permitindo-lhes contribuir ativamente para o cenário têxtil indonésio. Muitos desses artesãos estabeleceram seus próprios negócios, mantendo colaborações contínuas com a Tiara Handicraft. O estudo adota uma abordagem qualitativa, baseada em observação etnográfica, entrevistas em profundidade e análise de design participativo no espaço da Tiara Handicraft, localizado em Java Oriental (2022). A coleta de dados inclui imersão direta na produção artesanal, documentação detalhada do processo de confecção dos tecidos Gulijat e análise das dinâmicas ateliê-artesão. A pesquisa investiga as decisões criativas, interações sociais e a relevância cultural dos artesãos, além de examinar como os têxteis Gulijat

constroem identidade, promovem autonomia artística e desafiam as percepções convencionais sobre deficiência na indústria criativa indonésia. A análise fundamenta-se na teoria do Encantamento Tecnológico de Alfred Gell, examinando como as técnicas complexas e os padrões simbólicos dos tecidos Gulijat influenciam as percepções dos consumidores, articulando cultura material, artesanato e narrativas sociais. Os resultados revelam que os artesãos percebem Gulijat como uma plataforma de expressão artística e reconhecimento social, enquanto os consumidores respondem positivamente à sua estética inovadora e aos significados culturais que incorpora. Os tecidos Gulijat incentivam a independência econômica, preservam o artesanato tradicional e ampliam a presença artística de indivíduos com deficiência na indústria criativa. A Tiara Handicraft exemplifica um modelo de empoderamento sustentável, demonstrando como a produção cultural articula tradição, inovação e inclusão social, promovendo a diversidade cultural dentro da economia criativa global.  

Biografias Autor

Fera Ratyaningrum, Universitas Negeri Surabaya, Indonésia

Senior Lecturer in the Department of Visual Arts Education, Universitas Negeri Surabaya, Indonesia. She holds a PhD in arts and culture education, with research focusing on batik as a cultural phenomenon, cultural preservation, and the creative industry. Her work emphasizes how batik can serve as a medium for cultural empowerment and promote inclusivity by creating creative spaces for people with disabilities. She actively engages in community-based projects, collaborating with local artisans to preserve traditional batik techniques while exploring innovative approaches.

Muchammad Bayu Tejo Sampurno, Universiti Pendidikan Sultan Idris, Malásia

Assistant Professor in the Faculty of Music and Performing Arts, Universiti Pendidikan Sultan Idris, Malaysia. He holds a Doctorate (Philosophy) specializing in multicultural disability and inclusivity. His research explores the intersection of performing arts, cultural diversity, and inclusive education, promoting access to artistic expression for marginalized communities. He has contributed to projects focusing on the empowerment of people with disabilities through music and performing arts. Additionally, he is active in international academic collaborations and publishes research on inclusive pedagogy, multiculturalism in arts education, and the role of performing arts in fostering social cohesion.

Ika Anggun Camelia, Universitas Negeri Surabaya, Indonésia

Senior Lecturer in the Department of Visual Arts Education, Universitas Negeri Surabaya, Indonesia. She holds a PhD in arts and culture education, with research expertise in comparing rural and urban cultural education. Her work highlights the role of local traditions, such as Damar Kurung, as tools for character education and cultural preservation in Indonesia. She has authored numerous articles on visual arts education and cultural studies. Ika actively collaborates with local communities to promote traditional art forms while exploring their relevance in contemporary education. Her research contributes to understanding cultural heritage's role in shaping educational values.

Referências

Agustina, I. T., & Yosintha, R. (2021). The Impact of Covid-19 on Hotel Industry In Asian Countries. Jurnal Kepariwisataan Indonesia: Jurnal Penelitian Dan Pengembangan Kepariwisataan Indonesia, 14(2 SE-Articles), 159–167. https://doi.org/10.47608/jki.v14i22020.159-167

Anderson, E., Hunt, K., Wild, C., Nettleton, S., Ziebland, S., & MacLean, A. (2024). Episodic disability and adjustments for work: the ‘rehabilitative work’ of returning to employment with Long Covid. Disability & Society, 0(0), 1–23. https://doi.org/10.1080/09687599.2024.2331722

Bhabha, H. K. (1994). The Location of Culture. Routledge.

Bruce Tsui, R. T. H., & Tavitiyaman, P. (2024). Disability employment and work outcomes: The roles of hospitality job position and emotion. Journal of Human Resources in Hospitality & Tourism, 23(4), 712–740. https://doi.org/10.1080/15332845.2024.2374223

Chang, C.-C., Pai, C.-J., & Lo, H.-W. (2024). Sustainable Development Evaluation of Cultural and Creative Industries Using a Neutrosophic-Based Dematel-Topsis Approach. International Journal of Information Technology and Decision Making, 23(3), 1367–1400. https://doi.org/10.1142/S0219622023500426

Combs, H. D. R., Cowand, A., Noonan, E., Weingartner, L., Harris, L., & Williams, S. (2025). Shared social identity and social safety as health promoting factors for gender diverse individuals with a chronic illness and/or disability: A qualitative analysis of intersectional experiences. International Journal of Transgender Health, 0(0), 1–13. https://doi.org/10.1080/26895269.2025.2450236

de Bernardi, C. (2022). Sámi tourism in marketing material: a multimodal discourse analysis. Acta Borealia, 39(2), 115–137. https://doi.org/10.1080/08003831.2022.2104544

Dong Lin, S. L., & Campbell, F. K. (2024). Disability and employment in China: a Guangzhou case study. Disability & Society, 0(0), 1–23. https://doi.org/10.1080/09687599.2024.2368556

Gandhiadi, G. K. (2019). Structural model for the role of government and social capital on business performance of weaving industry in Jembrana Regency of Bali. 1321(2). https://doi.org/10.1088/1742-6596/1321/2/022065

Gell, A. (2006). Technology of Enchantment and Enchantment of Technology. In E. Hirsch (Ed.), The Art of Antrophology Essay and Diagrams. Athlone Press.

Gur, A., & Klein, M. (2024). Social work supervision in the disability field: a systematic literature review. Social Work Education, 0(0), 1–22. https://doi.org/10.1080/02615479.2024.2319251

Hadley, B., Rieger, J., Ellis, K., & Paterson, E. (2024). Cultural safety as a foundation for allyship in disability arts. Disability and Society, 39(1), 213 – 233. https://doi.org/10.1080/09687599.2022.2067468

Handoko, F., Vitasari, P., Hidayat, S., & Tjahjadi, M. E. (2019). Technology transfer program for SMEs in Indonesia. Journal of Physics: Conference Series, 1375(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1742-6596/1375/1/012053

Hochstrasser, J. B. (2011). Batik Belanda: Transformed identities cross boundaries in the visual arts (Or: Eliza van Zuylen and creativity at the margins). Dutch Crossing, 35(2), 148–161. https://doi.org/10.1179/155909011X13033128278641

Hoogenboom, M., Bannink, D., & Trommel, W. (2010). From local to grobal, and back. Business History, 52(6), 932–954. https://doi.org/10.1080/00076791.2010.511183

Jayawinangun, R., Tosida, E. T., Nugraha, Y. A., Aunnie, D. P., Ardiansyah, D., Sambas, A., & Saputra, J. (2024). Investigating the communication network for batik village tourism stakeholders to support smart economy in Bogor regency, Indonesia. International Journal of Data and Network Science, 8(1), 381 – 392. https://doi.org/10.5267/j.ijdns.2023.9.016

Jiang, W. (2024). Research on Cross-Cultural Product and Service Design Dynamics in a Global Perspective. In Lecture Notes in Computer Science (including subseries Lecture Notes in Artificial Intelligence and Lecture Notes in Bioinformatics): Vol. 14699 LNCS. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3031-60898-8_17

Kulbok-Lattik, E., Roosalu, T., & Saro, A. (2024). Cultural sustainability and Estonian community houses. Frontiers in Political Science, 6. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpos.2024.1305143 Levy, C. E., Uomoto, J. M., Betts, D. J., & Hoenig, H. (2025). Creative Arts Therapies in

Rehabilitation. Archives of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation, 106(1), 153 – 157. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apmr.2024.07.008

Maryunani, S. R. (2019). Community Empowerment as a Means in Promoting Local Products: A Case Study in Bandung, Indonesia. Journal of Promotion Management, 25(3), 439–451. https://doi.org/10.1080/10496491.2019.1557821

Mayangsari, L., Novani, S., & Hermawan, P. (2015). Batik Solo Industrial Cluster Analysis as Entrepreneurial System: A Viable Co-creation Model Perspective. Procedia - Social and Behavioral Sciences, 169(August 2014), 281–288. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sbspro.2015.01.311

McDonnell, T. E. (2010). Cultural objects as objects: Materiality, urban space, and the interpretation of AIDS campaigns in Accra, Ghana. American Journal of Sociology, 115(6), 1800 – 1852. https://doi.org/10.1086/651577

Mills, K. A. (2019). Big Data for Qualitative Research. In Routledge Focus. Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9780429056413

Muhajir, Ratyaningrum, F., Murwandani, N. G., Angge, I. C., & Oemar, E. A. B. (2020). Empowerment of the People Effected by Covid-19 Through GULIJAT Technical Training for Member of FBS Cleaning Service at Universitas Negeri Surabaya. Proceedings of the International Joint Conference on Arts and Humanities 2021 (IJCAH 2021), 491, 1263–1266. https://doi.org/10.2991/assehr.k.201201.212

Nóra Menich, Z. K., & Tausz, K. (2024). The functioning of European social protection systems in fulfilling the needs of persons with disabilities during COVID-19 – a semi-systematic review. Disability & Society, 0(0), 1–20. https://doi.org/10.1080/09687599.2024.2323452

Novani, S., Putro, U. S., & Hermawan, P. (2015). Value Orchestration Platform: Promoting Tourism in Batik Industrial Cluster Solo. Procedia - Social and Behavioral Sciences, 169(August 2014), 207–216. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sbspro.2015.01.304

Pfeifere, D. (2022). The Issues of Defining and Classifying Cultural Centres. Economics and Culture, 19(2), 28–37. https://doi.org/10.2478/jec-2022-0013

Rahman, O., & Gong, M. (2016). Sustainable practices and transformable fashion design – Chinese professional and consumer perspectives. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 9(3), 233–247. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2016.1167256

Ratyaningrum, F., & Muwardani, N. G. (2005). Kriya Tekstil. Unesa University Press.

Ratyaningrum, F., Trisakti, Angge, I. C., & Marsudi. (2022). Development of Pamekasan Batik Motifs as the Application of Product Diversifications. Proceedings of the International Joint Conference on Arts and Humanities 2021 (IJCAH 2021), 618, 133–137.

https://doi.org/10.2991/assehr.k.211223.024

Salas, D. A., Criollo, P., & Ramirez, A. D. (2021). The role of higher education institutions in the implementation of circular economy in Latin America. Sustainability (Switzerland), 13(17). https://doi.org/10.3390/su13179805

Sampurno, M. B. T. (2023). Critics of the Tendency of Art Education for Autistic Children in Indonesia. ARTSEDUCA, 35 SE-Experiencias Educativas, 121–133. https://doi.org/10.6035/artseduca.7107

Sampurno, M. B. T., Rizal Djahwasi, H., Alfarisi, S., & Anggun Camelia, I. (2024). Performing the opportunity space of therapeutic art education for autistic children. Arteterapia. Papeles de Arteterapia y Educación Artística Para La Inclusión Social, 19(SE-Investigaciones sobre arteterapia y educación artística para la inclusión social), e88594. https://doi.org/10.5209/arte.88594

Samuel R. C. Arnold Aishani Desai, K. M. T. H. B. M. J. W. G. F., & Trollor, J. N. (2024). Towards a contribution paradigm: photovoice uncovering the contribution of people with intellectual disability. Disability & Society, 0(0), 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1080/09687599.2024.2411529

Steelyana, E. (2012). Batik, A Beautiful Cultural Heritage that Preserve Culture and Supporteconomic Development in Indonesia. Binus Business Review, 3(1), 116. https://doi.org/10.21512/bbr.v3i1.1288

Suryathi, W., & Gede, I. G. K. (2018). Empirical Studies Development of Creative Industry Its Contribution to Make-Up of Product Orientation Exporting in Denpasar-Bali. 953(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1742-6596/953/1/012098

Tören, Z., & Açan, B. A. (2024). Social workers’ experience with the concept of empowerment:

voices from the disability field. Journal of Social Work Practice, 38(3), 287–301. https://doi.org/10.1080/02650533.2024.2379449

Wahono, P., & Hara, A. E. (2019). The creation of corporate knowledge and innovation among indonesia’s batik producers: A case study of four main areas of batik production in java. International Journal of Business and Society, 20(1), 299–310.

Wall-Andrews, C., & Luka, M. E. (2022). Advancing Equity in Arts Entrepreneurship A Case Study on Gender Equity and Empowerment in Music Production. Artivate, 11(1).

https://doi.org/10.34053/artivate.11.1.154

Weeren-Griek, H. Van. (1949). Indonesian Art: Batik and Puppetry Art-Crafts of the East Indies. Design, 50(8), 10–25. https://doi.org/10.1080/00119253.1949.10742866

Downloads

Publicado

2025-06-09

Como Citar

Ratyaningrum, F., Sampurno, M. B. T., & Camelia, I. A. (2025). Encantamento Cultural e Inovação Multicultural: Capacitando a criatividade e a inclusão da deficiência na indústria criativa da indonésia por meio dos texteis gulijat . E- Revista De Estudos Interculturais , (13). https://doi.org/10.34630/e-rei.vi13.6321

Edição

Secção

Artigos